[Seoul’s Local Soul #1] Local’s Go-To Korean BBQ Spot: Ilgwangsa in Euljiro

Quick Answer

At a Glance

CategoryDetails
Name일광사(ilgwangsa)
AreaEuljiro 4-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul
What to orderMoksal and perilla-oil white kimchi noodles
Good forFirst-time Korean barbecue diners, couples, and small groups
NavigationSearch for ‘ilgwangsa’
on Naver Map
Before visitingCheck the latest opening hours and reservation availability on Naver Map

Four servings of moksal, photographed by me on August 21
Four servings of moksal ,
photographed by me on August 21

Ilgwangsa offers the kind of dining experience that many travelers hope to find in Seoul: local, comfortable, and genuinely worth returning to.

The interior is modern and clean, without losing the casual atmosphere of a neighborhood Korean barbecue restaurant. It does not feel cramped or chaotic, making it a comfortable choice even for visitors who are unfamiliar with Korean-style tabletop grilling.

Another practical advantage is that the restroom is located inside the restaurant. It may sound like a minor detail, but it makes the overall experience much more convenient, especially when dining in older parts of central Seoul.

Most importantly, the food is consistently good. That is why this is one of the restaurants I personally visit about once every month.

A clean, modern spot for samgyeopsal.
A clean, modern spot for samgyeopsal.

Samgyeopsal is pork belly, while moksal is usually translated as pork collar or pork neck.

Most international visitors naturally order samgyeopsal first because it is the Korean barbecue dish they already know. Ilgwangsa’s samgyeopsal is certainly worth trying, but the cut I recommend most is the moksal.

It has a meatier texture than pork belly while still remaining juicy and flavorful. It also feels slightly less fatty, allowing you to enjoy the taste of the pork without it becoming too heavy.

The samgyeopsal is good, but the moksal is the reason I keep coming back.

For two people, ordering both cuts is a good way to compare them. Still, make sure the moksal is part of your order. You may arrive expecting samgyeopsal to be the highlight and leave remembering the moksal instead.

Korean barbecue can be confusing if it is your first time.

When should you turn the meat over? Is it fully cooked? Should you cut it with the scissors? Are you supposed to place everything on the grill at once?

At Ilgwangsa, you do not need to worry about any of this. The owner grills the meat at your table, turning and cutting it at the right time.

You can simply watch, wait, and enjoy the meat when it is ready. This makes Ilgwangsa especially comfortable for travelers trying Korean barbecue for the first time.

Instead of concentrating on the grill, you can focus on the food and the people you are dining with.

Mouthwatering moksal, 
personally grilled by the owner chef.
Mouthwatering moksal,
personally grilled by the owner chef.

Before leaving, there is one more dish you should order: the perilla-oil kimchi noodles.

Unlike many kimchi noodle dishes, this one is made with baek-kimchi, or white kimchi. Baek-kimchi is prepared without the red chili powder that gives ordinary kimchi its familiar red color.

As a result, the noodles do not come in a red, spicy broth. The dish is pale and almost white, with a mild and refreshing flavor.

It is not spicy. Instead, it has a gentle tang from the white kimchi, a rich nuttiness from the perilla oil, and a deep savory flavor that Koreans describe as gamchilmat, or umami.

The cool noodles are refreshing after grilled pork, while the perilla oil gives the dish enough richness to make it memorable on its own.

It may look like a simple side dish, but it is one of the main reasons I recommend Ilgwangsa. Even when you feel full after the meat, save some room for a bowl.

For the most accurate result, open Naver Map and search using the restaurant’s Korean name: 일광사

You can also search for the restaurant in English. I checked this myself, and searching for Ilgwangsa in English brings up the correct restaurant on Naver Map. If the English search does not work for you, you can simply copy and paste the Korean name above into the search bar.

Once you open the restaurant page, you can use two useful Naver Map features.

Tap “Directions.”

Naver Map will show you the best route from your current location by subway, bus, taxi, car, or on foot. The restaurant is near Euljiro 4-ga Station, but using live directions is the easiest way to locate the correct entrance.

Tap “Reservation,” on the restaurant’s Naver Map page.

Select the available date, time, and number of guests, then follow the on-screen instructions. Reservation availability may change, so checking before your visit is recommended, particularly during dinner hours.

For detailed instructions, see my previous guide, The Essential Map App for Korea: A Guide to NAVER Map. I covered the process in that post, so you can refer to it for step-by-step instructions.


Start with the moksal. You can also order samgyeopsal to compare the two cuts. For the final dish, do not miss the perilla-oil white kimchi noodles.

No. The dish is made with baek-kimchi, or white kimchi, rather than red chili kimchi. The noodles are mild, nutty, refreshing, and savory.

Yes. The owner grills and cuts the meat at the table, so you do not need to know how to manage the grill yourself.

Search for ‘Ilgwangsa‘ on Naver Map. Tap Directions for directions and Reservation to check available reservation times.